What We Talk About When We Talk About Fashion

Camouflage prints evolve from being a trend to becoming a staple in fashion.

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Givenchy Men’s Fall Winter 2023 Runway

Over the years the relationship between military camouflage prints and fashion has evolved to an eternal love affair. We've all been exposed to multiple renditions of camo prints whether it be on our favorite cargo shorts, a t-shirt, or any accessory. From the classic neutral “blend in” colorway to any boisterous “stand out” color, you can think of on Pantone. If you’ve chosen the most effective way to go unseen, which is living under a rock, I'm here to tell you the coast is clear! Come out, wander into any vintage thrift shop or goodwill outlet. I promise it won’t take you long to find racks of worn pieces regurgitating camo prints and cool leathers. Some of us roll our eyes at the sight of camouflage prints and some of us instantly think “Bad Ass”, either way, if any of us were asked if we owned at least one camo print garment chances are we’d plead the fifth without thinking twice. But what makes this print so appealing that we won’t lay it to rest entirely throughout everyday and luxury fashion?

From Warfare to Fashion

Military camouflage patterns first developed in 1914, France during World War I. Prior to the pattern's official release, while in the field soldiers would immerse themselves in mud as best they could to blend in with the scenery. According to The National Park Service, the first creators of the camouflage pattern were artists who felt encouraged by “the theatrical nature in the attempts to hide military personnel and actions”. French painter Lucien-Victor Guirand de Scévola was one artist who had a hand in the creation of the unique pattern print along with a few other camoufleurs. This term is short for an individual who is skilled in the camouflaging technique. The term camouflage as we know it was birthed from this name. At this point, Camouflage made its debut as a trend within warfare, as this new way of “blending in” traveled from France to Britain and finally America. As of 2023, the variety of camouflage patterns is continuing to grow in many different regions. New variations of the pattern are being created at this very moment.

BRUSHSTROKE CAMO DIGITAL PATTERN

CHOCOLATE CHIP PUZZLE PATTERN

This elusive pattern went from being strictly for military personnel to make its appearance in fashion in the 1980s. In 1986 the military pattern began to show up in the work of Andy Warhol. In 1987 Warhol released his final print portfolio, a Camouflage Series showcasing multiple colorways and variations that emulated the formal military pattern print. Warhol’s series was the complete opposite of a chameleon.

Andy Warhol Camouflage Series 1987

The Impact

I’m a veteran, I feel personally connected to the infamous camouflage print. In 2012 I purchased my first pair of camo cargo pants from a thrift shop. I paired the pants with a cropped light-washed denim jacket. At this time I had a short mushroom cut inspired by Robyn Rihanna Fenty of course. As I walked the halls of my high school a recruiter stopped me to persuade me to join the service. Of course, he did so by relating to me through fashion, “you look great in camo print, how about you turn it into a reality”. Oddly, the fact that I resembled Rihanna in the 2012 Battleship film sold me enough to consider joining. Outside of finding out joining the service would benefit me in regards to paying for college, I couldn’t stop envisioning how “hardcore” I would look in the full camouflage uniform”. This thought quickly left me days later, however, three years later I actually joined. This pattern print subliminally impacted me to make a life-changing decision. Before you ask… No, I don’t recommend letting the idea of “looking hardcore in camo” be a reason to join the military but a trend that will blow over in a year doesn’t have the power to guide someone in this way.

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Kylie Jenner in Aspen Jan. 2023

I was surprised to see the numerous articles from fashion journalists and bloggers predicting Camouflage prints would be out of trend in 2023. Who’s going to tell them?… Camouflage isn’t going anywhere, we can’t simply get rid of it. Given the resurgence of Y2K trends, we’re bound to see some of our favorite influencers spotted out wearing camo at some point this year.

Hailey Bieber & Justine Skye at Great White on Melrose Ave in West Hollywood Feb. 2023

The military camouflage print is a piece of history that can be mixed and matched effortlessly with your everyday dress, plus the mass scale of variations will always make the pattern feel brand new even though it's been around for centuries. It’s hands down a go-to piece.

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Louis Vuitton, Givenchy, (Di)vison, 1989 Studio, Selam Fessahaye seem to think the same as their Fall-Winter 2023 collections are flooded with unique emulations of the staple print. It’s safe to say Camouflage prints have been embedded in fashion from the very start of its arrival. The history behind the print explains why Camouflage has phased from trendy to a universal staple. People from all regions of the world can establish their own personal connection to this pattern print for years to come. Like Andy Warhol, we all have the opportunity to make it our own.

By: Yasmeen James

March 8th, 2023